1998, 1998

Oslo is the capital of Norway, a city of some 500,000 people spread out at the northernmost end of the Oslofjord, surrounded by hills and forests.

It was also my home for three months during the summer of 1999, when I participated in the University of Oslo International Summer School, and then had an extended summer holiday sightseeing afterwards, thanks to the hospitality of several friends. For most of my stay, the weather was incredible - dry and warm with hours of sunshine. I had visited Oslo once before, in 1998, but this was just a weekend visit where I saw a lot of nightlife and not much else!

Oslo is small enough to get around the city centre on foot, but it has an excellent public transport system of buses, trams and T-Banen (metro) for longer journies or when you can't be bothered to walk. It took some getting used to for a British person - clean, cheap and punctual.

During the summer, public transport tickets are also valid on the small boats that depart from Langkoia down by the Akershus Festning to the collection of small islands out in the Oslofjord, such as Gressholmen and Langøya. A trip to an island on a sunny day is very relaxing, yet it's only 20 minutes from the city. On one such visit to Langøya, I watched a huge thunderstorm as it soaked Oslo, then had to run full tilt to catch the ferry as the storm began to head south towards the islands.

There is so much to do and see in Oslo. I was lucky in that I saw lots of extras through ISS, such as Stortinget (the Norwegian Parliament), and enjoyed a civic reception in the Rådhuset (Oslo City Hall), but there are many more attractions such as the Kon Tiki museum which celebrates the achievements of Thor Heydahl, the Olympic ski jump at Holmenkollen and the fantastic Vigelandspark.

Rådhuset (Oslo City Hall) overlooks the Oslofjord and is the administrative centre of Oslo. Built in 1947, it now hosts the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony. The somewhat unusual outside appearance is misleading - inside it is light and airy with high ceilinged halls and colourful frescos. There are fine views over the Oslofjord, and also a display showing the collection of gifts made to the city from around the world.

My favourite part of Oslo, Vigelandspark is the creation of Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943). It contains about 200 hundred sculptures, celebrating the family and life. The park was commissioned by the City of Oslo. It's best to visit in the evening sunshine, which lends a golden quality to the granite sculptures that lie at the heart of the park, The Monolith. The big favourite is the Angry Little Boy, stamping his feet on the bridge across the park. It's also fun to see the little Norwegian schoolchildren on one of their regular trips, hand in hand (proving the myth that Norwegians are born with rucksacks on their back), or to watch the rollerbladers showing off (with painful displays of what happens when you try to go down a flight of steps backwards).

The Emanuel Vigeland Museum is Oslo's hidden gem, a MUST for all visitors to Oslo, that can be found along Grimedlundsveien, a 10 minute walk from Vinderen T-banen station. Emanuel Vigeland, brother of Gustav, is interred inside the large red brick building. The senses cannot be prepared for what lies behind the small thick internal door. Black, silent and eerie, your eyes take sometime to become accustomed to Emanuel's celebration of life and death which adorn the high walls.